We woke up this morning and prepared ourselves for the emotionally draining day which had finally dawned on us. After a short breakfast, we met in the lobby, ready to drive down the path of Cambodia’s tragic history. Today we would be visiting one of the most infamous Khmer Rouge prisons, alongside one of the 388 killing fields which were scattered across the country during Pol Pot’s reign. Arriving at our first destination, S-21 prison, Tuol Sleng – also named ‘The poisonous hill’, we were shocked by the countless atrocities which occurred behind the prison walls. The secretive and horrifying nature of what occurred within the prison made the experience so confronting for each and every one of us. Walking through some of the dimly lit prison cells, the reality of what sins were committed only 38 years ago in our exact location seemed so surreal. However, this was the harsh truth. The Khmer Regime truly did cripple the country. A staggering 3 million people killed ruthlessly, 43% of the population- dead.
Firstly unable to entirely comprehend the inhumane acts executed by Khmer Rouge soldiers, we were additionally exposed to the moving images of those who had occupied the cells. Some of the photos were taken by Vietnamese journalists on the discovery of this ‘re-education facility’ on the 10th of January 1979. Cell Block B housed an exhibition, displaying thousands of photos of those who were once prisoners. We learnt with great depth and detail, our tour guide made us realise this was no ordinary political reign. Making the historical events so much more real for all of us, he opened our eyes to a new perspective surrounding the cruel intentions of the Khmer Rouge leaders. Keep in mind that some of those who committed these atrocities were as young as 12. Torture was something that never passed by any person detained within the walls of S-21. Farmers admitting to being intellectuals, women from poverty claiming to be university graduates- purely to avoid the horrific pain inflicted upon them. All those with glasses, lighter skin or soft hands were labelled as educated people solely on the fact that farmers, the idealistic occupation, were hardened and uncorrupted by bourgeoisie (middle and upper class) ideals and comforts. These “educated” people, and their families, were herded to S-21 into the old school blocks where they were chained in small classrooms which had been congregated into 12 separate cells for the men, and 16 cells for women. The cells were either wooden or brick without windows, in order to utterly cut them off from the outside world.
We followed the footsteps of the detainees, being driven to the killing fields along the same route which they would have years ago. An ominous silence had swept across the group, as we entered the killing field which had previously acted as a Chinese cemetery. The scenery was alike something out of a children’s picture book, the warm sun and vibrant green grass, towering trees in full bloom accompanied by a completely blue sky. The conflicting nature of it all created an eerie feel- surely something so horrific could never have occurred in such a beautiful place? Yet, once again clouded by the reality of the situation, we followed the track to see one of the notorious 129 mass graves on site. Altogether these graves once held the bodies of 20,000 men, women and children. In just the three graves we had encountered, the total body count was 716 alone. In a building at the heart of the site, over 900 fractured skulls were piled together, a reminder that this isn’t just a story. These events were honest and true, nothing about it was surreal any longer. Standing less than a meter away, we stood staring into hollowed out faces of the past. While it was a very confronting experience for many students, we all agreed that it was also profoundly moving and very worthwhile.
After these visits to historical places, lunch along the water front was welcomed. From lunch we had a quick visit at the central market, which was built by the French in the 1950’s. It was by far the most extravagant market we have visited during our trip. Once we returned to the hotel, the group met in a conference room to reflect on the events of this huge trip. This was an opportunity for everyone in the group to reflect as a group on the most meaningful parts of the trip. Common themes included appreciation of friends and family, gratitude for the incredible opportunities we have been provided with, and empathy for those who have much less than us yet remain so warm and generous. The genuine closeness and connection within the group was also apparent and this is something we are all very proud of. The night then concluded with a group dinner at a local Cambodian restaurant. The food at this restaurant was one of the stand-out meals of the trip.
After today’s journey back through Cambodia’s timeline, the group felt connected to the events which occurred less than half a century ago.The recognition of the pain and suffering inflicted on these people from those who visited the sights was something we will never forget.
By Peter Caddaye, Luka Hamilton and Amelia Gaskell
