Today we say farewell to Viêt Nam. We awoke early, as usual, and, just like any other day, we enjoyed a buffet breakfast. Perhaps there was a certain additional gravity to the morning routine; but it could easily have been missed, and put down to coincidence.
We travelled on foot to a local market, one of the biggest in Ha Noi, where we employed, for the last time, our bargaining skills. Some good deals were definitely arranged. The market was similar to the others we had visited in our travels, though less touristy; it is primarily used by locals, and is mainly wholesale. It is, as usual, a maze like rabbit-warren of a place.
We then returned to the hotel to check out, and just as quickly left for lunch. We ate at the KOTO restaurant. KOTO was founded by a Vietnamese/Korean/Australian, Jimmy Pham. The restaurant’s mission is to provide disadvantaged teenagers with skills they need to work in the hospitality industry. The food is wonderful, though a tad on the expensive side; but the money is certainly well spent, given the good KOTO does. Most of us spent the last of our Vietnamese Dong.
We then returned to Australian soil, as we met up with Vietnam Grey and passed through the gates of the Australian Embassy. We were told about Australia’s relationship with Viêt Nam, and the fascinating business of a consul. It was interesting to note the images displayed outside the embassy: they showed Uluru, merino sheep, koalas – a few urban scenes, like Flinder’s Street Station, but almost exclusively images pertaining to the national ‘Bush’ myth of identity. It is interesting to note that the projected identity of our mostly urban country is so complete that it exists in other countries. It is interesting to question where it originated – is this a reality of our country that we have come to show the rest of the world; or is it an image we presented to the world, once a deception, but which we found, too late, had come to define us?
It is an interesting consideration, tempered by this question: if we cannot truly define Australia, how can we hope to begin to understand Viêt Nam, a country so different to the one we are used to? The answer, of course, is that none of us can hope to fully understand it, any more than we can really understand any country; it is simply too vast, too multitudinous. But there is no doubt that the little we have come to comprehend of Viêt Nam will allow us to understand immeasurably more of Australia’s identity.
The past 17 days have been truly extraordinary, and they have effected us deeply. Our experience has been life changing and wonderful; but there is a common sentiment that we are ready to go home.
Looking ahead, we wonder how easy it will be to go back, and get used to a stationary existence again. The independence we have enjoyed on this trip will be hard to give up, and frankly we cannot imagine that we will. The brave new world we have discovered on this journey will not be left behind when we board the aeroplane in Saigon – it will follow us always, because it is within us – is what has changed and grown in us. It is the glimpse of our futures we have seen. It is the identities that have become to take shape.
And so goodnight, Viêt Nam, nation of light and water, nation of beauty. May your star shine golden forever.
Melbourne, we will see you very soon!
By Helene & Emerson
Photos: outside the Australian Embassy; lunch at KOTO; listening to the consular staff at the embassy; a sad farewell to our tour guide, Sunny.





